Dear Collectors,

We are honored to be invited to participate in the 2nd Annual Global Jewelry Exhibition by H.E. Sheikha Al Mayassa bint Hamad Al Thani, whose visionary leadership has established Qatar as a global cultural epicenter where heritage and innovation converge. Held at the Firestation Museum in Doha from January 30 to February 5, 2025, this exceptional event reflects a profound celebration of artistry and design.

Siegelson, described by Vogue Paris as “New York’s King of Jewelry” and praised by The Financial Times for “bringing period jewelry out from its exquisitely carved ivory tower and presenting it in a contemporary context,” is recognized as a leader in rare collectible jewels and objets d’art. For over a century, we have curated treasures that transcend time, chosen for their exceptional beauty, craftsmanship, and historical importance.

We are pleased to present a world-class collection of signed vintage jewels and objets d’art—masterpieces that highlight the seamless connection between art and design. Each piece tells a story of elegance and innovation, appealing to the most discerning collectors and connoisseurs.

Should any of these remarkable creations capture your interest, we would be delighted to provide further details or arrange a private viewing during the exhibition.

With warm regards,
Lee Siegelson
Siegelson, New York

Collection Highlights

The Barbara Hutton Starburst Ring: An Art Deco Rock Crystal and Diamond Ring by Cartier, Paris, circa 1930

A ring composed of carved rock crystal in bombe form, set with round old cut diamonds in a starburst form; mounted in platinum, with French assay marks, in a fitted box.

• Signed Cartier, Made in France

• Measurements: 1½ x 7/8 inch

• Ring size: 6¼

Barbara Hutton, gifted to Karin Gustafson

Cartier was founded in Paris in 1847 by Louis-François Cartier. His three grandsons, Louis, Pierre, and Jacques, built the house into a famous international jewelry empire serving royalty, Hollywood stars, and socialites. Cartier has created some of the most important jewelry and objects of art of the twentieth century with many iconic designs such as mystery clocks, Tutti Frutti jewelry and the Panthère line. In 1983, The Cartier Collection was established with the objective of acquiring important pieces that trace the firm’s artistic evolution. Today, Cartier has 200 stores in 125 countries

Barbara Hutton was one of the most glamorous and wealthiest socialites of the twentieth century with a jewelry collection to match. Born in 1912 to Edna Woolworth and Frank Hutton, Barbara was heir to an enormous fortune built on Woolworth’s five-and-dime stores. By the 1930s, when Hutton was in her 20s, she had inherited $40 million (about $900 million today). Called the “millionaire baby” Hutton was known in the press for her extraordinary spending, outfitting houses in London, Paris, Monaco, and Venice with the finest furnishings.

Hutton had an unparalleled jewelry collection including the best examples from the finest French houses and greatest royal families. Philip van Rensselaer wrote in his biography of Hutton, “Barbara’s amazing collection of jewelry was spread out over the ivory lace coverlet . . . These emeralds, sapphires, rubies, and pearls were gemstones with historical backgrounds. Barbara was particularly fond of running Marie Antoinette’s pearls through her fingers.”

This extraordinary carved rock crystal ring is a stylish standout. The bombe form is covered with diamonds in a romantic starburst motif. Stars have been popular in jewelry for centuries, but the design choices made by Cartier’s designers are completely modern. Even more incredible, this ring was gifted by Hutton to her physiotherapist, Karin Gustafson, on a trip to Egypt in 1935. Gustafson wrote to her aunt, “this morning she took a ring from her jewel case and gave it to me. The ring is made from a block of crystal and there are about 95 diamonds set in platinum. I was completely shocked, but she simply said, I have so much and cannot wear it all, and I like you.” This magnificent ring with an impeccable provenance and incredible story would be a beautiful addition to any collection.

Art Deco Aquamarine, Diamond, and Enamel Brooch by Georges Fouquet, Paris, 1925

A brooch of geometric design composed of a cushion-cut aquamarine atop onyx triangles and a polished platinum rectangle accented with round diamonds; mounted in platinum; with French assay marks; in a fitted case.

• Signed G. Fouquet, numbered, with maker’s mark for Georges Fouquet

• Measurements: 2¾ x 1¾ inches

Les Fouquet Bijoutiers & Joailliers à Paris 1860-1960. Musée des Arts Décoratifs, Flammarion, 1983, pg. 165, illustration 138.

Sentenac, Paul. Le Renaissance de L’Art Francais et des Industrues de Luxe, “L’Art dans le Bijoux,” March 1928.

Maison Fouquet was founded in Paris in 1862 by Alphonse Fouquet, who exhibited jewelry inspired by sphinxes and chimeras at the 1878 Exposition Universelle in Paris. In 1895, he was succeeded by his son, Georges, a designerand shrewd businessman respected among his peers and a commander ofthe Légion d’Honneur. At the turn of the century, graphic designer Alphonse Mucha created imaginative jewels for the company. Jean Fouquet joined the family firm in 1920, designing avant-garde jewelry based on rectilinear precepts. After the firm closed in February 1936, he worked on commissions for private clients.

When Georges Fouquet took over his father’s shop in the late 1890s, he immediately pivoted away from the Renaissance Revival jewels the firm was know for, instead designing inventive pieces with the whiplash curves of the Art Nouveau. Fouquet was not afraid to explore new ideas and quickly gained a reputation for creativity. Henri Vever called him, “A tireless worker . .. he was enthralled by all things new, and his search for fresh inspiration wasrelentless.”

Fouquet pivoted again during the Art Deco period in the 1920s. He and hisson, Jean, joined a group of artists, including bijoutiers-artistes (artist-jewelers)Raymond Templier, Jean Dunand, Jean Després, and Gerard Sandoz, to form the Union des Artistes Modernes a group of designers on the forefront of ArtDeco design who focused on a modern aesthetic rather than material value.His new designs, like this brooch, stripped away unnecessary decoration, implemented simple forms, and found inspiration in geometric forms. He wrote, “The jewels most likely to endure are not ostentatious displays, but those in which the metal is associated with raw materials of a financial valueless than their beauty, like aquamarine, amethyst, topaz, or tourmaline.  Art, which never ages, will prolong the career of these jewels. It will endow them with their true character. They will never be disassembled so that thematerials can be used in a different form. They are, first of all, works of art . . ..”

Elevated to a work of art, the bold design of this brooch plays with geometry and layering. Fouquet used three triangular pieces of onyx to create the illusion that the central aquamarine is laid atop a single triangle.Similarly, the bands of diamonds appear to thread behind the triangle, while really appearing on either side. The overall composition brings a feeling of movement and dimension. This incredible brooch is a masterpiece of ArtDeco design and would be an important centerpiece of any collection.

Pair of Gold Interlocking Link Bracelets by Cartier, London, 1960–1970

A pair of bracelets, each composed of a series of interlocking rings; in 18-karat yellow gold with Britishhallmarks; in original Cartier fitted box.

• One signed Cartier and both numbered, with date marks for 1960 (e) and 1970 (p)

• Measurements: 8½ x 7/8 inches

Cartier was founded in Paris in 1847 by Louis-François Cartier. His three grandsons, Louis, Pierre, and Jacques, built the house into a famous international jewelry empire serving royalty, Hollywood stars, and socialites. Cartier has created some of the most important jewelry and objects of art of the twentieth century with many iconic designs such as mystery clocks, Tutti Frutti jewelry and the Panthère line. In 1983, The Cartier Collection was established with the objective of acquiring important pieces that trace the firm’s artistic evolution. Today, Cartier has 200 stores in 125 countries.

The 1960s was a time of radical change in the fashion world. London was the center of the shift known as the Swinging Sixties, an era was marked by phenomenal rock bands including the Beatles and the Kinks, as well as a youth-driven counterculture movement. Young people favored independent clothing boutiques like Mary Quant on Carnaby Street with her bright colors and short hemlines. Boxy shapes and strange materials noted the influence of science, technology, and the space race. Geometry and circles were repeated in patterns over and over, the bigger the better patterns the better.

Cartier responded to this bright era with playful and wearable pieces such as figurative brooches and easily wearable gold earrings, necklaces and flexible bracelets like this unusual pair. Composed of interlocking circles to create a chain, the bracelet design is a wonderful expression of Cartier’s creativity. The gold bracelet form has been ubiquitous in jewelry, with early examples found in tombs in Ancient Egypt and Babylonia. These tightly woven examples eventually evolved into this modern version, an oversized series of interlocking links that perfectly captures the fun and excitement of 1960s London.

The first of these bracelets was made in 1960, and in 1970 the owner returned to Cartier to have a matching bracelet made. Although there was a decade between their manufacture, Cartier stamped each bracelet with the same reference number and returned them in a fitted box, marking them as a true pair. The sophisticated and sculptural set of bracelets is a perfect example of the modern glamour of 1960s London.

To view the full collection please request exclusive access password from Lee Siegelson

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